Discovering Dolcetto: The Underdog of Piedmont

In the world of Italian wines, Dolcetto stands as one of the most famous yet least coveted red wines from Piedmont. Often overshadowed by its more prestigious neighbors, Nebbiolo and Barbera, Dolcetto is frequently underestimated and misunderstood. But those who take the time to explore this unique grape variety discover a wine with remarkable charm and character, deeply tied to its place of origin.

A Misunderstood Grape

Dolcetto, whose name translates to "little sweet one" in Italian, is far from a sweet wine. The name might come from the grape’s relative sweetness compared to the very acidic Nebbiolo and Barbera or perhaps refers to the ‘sweet little hills’ (la colina dolce) where it is grown. However, Dolcetto’s reputation as a softer, fleshier wine than its Piedmont rivals often leads it to be seen as an everyday drinking option, unworthy of serious investment. This perception overlooks the grape's true potential, especially when grown and vinified with care.

Dolcetto ripens earlier than Nebbiolo and Barbera, making it a safer bet for farmers. It is often planted on cooler sites—at higher altitudes or in soils that retain less heat—where Nebbiolo might struggle to ripen. These cooler locations help reduce the risk of over-ripening, a common issue with Dolcetto that can lead to wines that are overly alcoholic and fruity. Unfortunately, the grape's placement on these lesser-quality sites contributes to its reputation, as it rarely gets the chance to shine on the best vineyards. Despite this, there are producers who carefully select their harvest dates and manage tannin extraction and oak aging to create complex, age-worthy Dolcetto wines.

Vinification in Stainless Steel

In Italy, Dolcetto is often vinified in stainless steel tanks. This method preserves the grape’s natural fruitiness and bright acidity, creating wines that are ready to drink shortly after bottling. Stainless steel tanks help to maintain the pure expression of Dolcetto, highlighting its vibrant berry flavors and floral notes without the influence of oak. This approach also allows producers to sell young Dolcetto wines quickly, providing an important source of early income while their Nebbiolos continue to age in cask.

The Oak-Aged Exception

While most Dolcetto wines are crafted in a fresh and fruity style, some winemakers choose to age Dolcetto in oak barrels to add complexity. However, the use of heavily oaked barrels is often avoided, as it can overpower Dolcetto’s delicate fruit aromas. Instead, more neutral oak is preferred, allowing the wine’s natural characteristics to shine through. In certain DOCG areas like Dogliani, Diano d’Alba, and Ovada, careful oak aging can result in Dolcetto wines with remarkable depth and the ability to age gracefully.

Where is Dolcetto Grown?

Dolcetto’s spiritual home is in Italy’s Piedmont region, where several appellations are dedicated to the grape. While Dolcetto is also grown in New World regions like Australia and the United States, its identity is firmly rooted in Piedmont. The region has several appellations dedicated exclusively to Dolcetto. The most notable of these have attained the top DOCG classification:

• Dogliani DOCG: Known for producing some of the boldest styles of Dolcetto, Dogliani wines are intensely perfumed with aromas of dark fruit, coffee, and cacao. This region is believed to be the birthplace of Dolcetto, with a rich history dating back to Roman times. Dogliani DOCG exclusively permits Dolcetto, ensuring that even the best sites are devoted to this grape.
• Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba DOCG: This region is known for concentrated Dolcetto wines, where oak aging is sometimes used to enhance richness and depth.
• Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore DOCG: In Ovada, the "Superiore" designation indicates a higher level of quality, often involving oak aging to produce a more structured and complex profile.

Other notable Dolcetto DOCs in Piedmont include Acqui, Alba, Asti, Langhe Monregalesi, and the broader Langhe region.

In total Piedmont accounts for about 98 percent of the Italian total of around 6,000 hectares (15,000 acres) of Dolcetto. Global figures do not vary from this by much. Nevertheless, the grape is permitted for use in various DOCs and dozens of IGPs around Italy (there are no IGPs in Piedmont). In Liguria, Piedmont's southern neighbor, the variety goes by the name Ormeasco, and is used to make Ormeasco di Pornassio. The wine here is brighter in color, with sweeter tannins and intense aromatics. The vineyards, ranging from 400m to 800m above sea level, produce wines with a distinctive character influenced by the altitude.

What Does Dolcetto Taste Like?

Dolcetto wines typically display a medium ruby color with violet or purple hues. On the nose, you can expect intense aromas of blackberry, blackcurrant, white pepper, mint, leather. On the palate, Dolcetto is dry, with medium to high acidity, medium to firm tannins, rich mouthfeel (for a wine with 13.5% ABV and no oak), and flavors of tart cherries, licorice, crushed flowers and almond, which is the trademark of any Dolcetto Wine. The finish is often moderate in length, leaving a lingering impression of the wine’s rich fruit and subtle spice.

Why Should You Drink Dolcetto?

Dolcetto is like a secret weapon for sommeliers. It’s a red wine that doesn’t overwhelm with power or assertiveness but is structured by balanced tannins and fresh berry fruit, making it incredibly food-friendly. Dolcetto pairs beautifully with pizza, pasta, mushrooms, and a variety of meats, from simple charcuterie to grilled steak. Serving it slightly chilled—after a 20-minute stint in the refrigerator—allows its fruit and floral notes to shine. And unlike some wines that require years of aging, most Dolcetto is ready to be enjoyed immediately.

Looking for the Best Dolcetto Wines & Terroirs

Despite its underdog status, Dolcetto can produce exceptional wines, especially when grown in specific crus where producers take great care in the vineyard and cellar. These high-quality Dolcetto wines are a well-kept secret among locals, who appreciate their complexity, intensity, and excellent value.

So next time you’re exploring Italian wines, don’t overlook Dolcetto. It may just surprise you with its charm, versatility, and the unique expression of Piedmont’s terroir.